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Charm-Lite Electric-Gaslight Conversion Kit Installation Manual

In Printable PDF

This manual covers the assembly and installation of the patented Charm-Lite Gas Light Conversion Kit. Read this manual thoroughly before beginning installation. Standard installations can be completed in 1-2 hours with absolute ease. However, consumers should evaluate product and make sure it is suitable for intended purpose. While many homeowners will install this product with ease, depending on yard size and placement of lamp, please evaluate level of difficulty, and individual state and county building and electrical codes concerning low voltage lighting. Most states do not require an electrical license to install low voltage lighting, but checking with your state and county for appropriate laws and regulations will dictate rather a professional is needed to complete the job.

This instruction manual is intended for the standard installation, however, we have included a few special circumstances that are by no means the “standard or normal installation.” The Special Circumstances section is not indicative of every installation, and is more suited to custom installations. This section has been included simply as instruction on a few unusual situations some consumers may face, while installing Charm-Lite Kits. The normal consumer will likely never encounter these problems, but consumers should strictly evaluate level of difficulty for particular circumstances before beginning job, and ascertain rather a professional is needed. Charm-Lite Inc., recommend hiring a professional for sidewalk obstructions or split foyer home installations.



  • STRAIGHT EDGE SPADE: Used for cutting ground
  • DANDELION DIGGER: To poke wire underground
  • POSTHOLE DIGGER: If you have a new post
  • AXE W/SLEDGE: For cutting roots and hammering sidewalk pipe
  • 3/4 IN. STEEL PIPE: If you have a sidewalk in the way
  • 1/2 IN. DRILL: Preferably hammer drill
  • 3/8 IN. DRILL BIT: For Dusk to Dawn sensor
  • 1/2 IN. MASONRY BIT: 12 in. Long to go through wall
  • EXTENSION CORD: For power drill
  • FLAT FISHTAPE: If you have a wall or ceiling to fish through
  • TWO PAIR OF PLIERS: Used to remove old lamp head parts
  • 8 FT. STRING: To fish through pole
  • PIECE OF WIRE: To fish out string at bottom of pole
  • SCREWDRIVER: To take off lamp head
  • WIRE CUTTERS: For cutting wire 

The Transformer is tested and certified “In Good Working Order” with sufficient power to operate (2)-1141 incandescent bulbs or less than 50 watts 

(The LED bulbs use less than 5 watts of power!)

DO NOT OVERLOAD TRANSFORMER. Always wear eye protection and unplug or discontinue service to all electrical devices before wiring, and make sure you...


Call your local Utility Protection Service at: #811



  • GASLITE CONVERSION KIT: Low volt, dusk-to-dawn electric
  • OUTDOOR WIRE: Use UL Listed, UF in gauges of: 12-2 over 250', 14-2 over 100', and 18-2 under 100' You can get 12 years or 12 weeks bulb life dependent upon distance and gauge of wire. Sprinkler system wire works great.
  • ROMEX STAPLES: For mounting wire on basement rafters
  • CAULKING COMPOUND: Silicon sealant for house wire entrance
  • 1/2 IN. CONDUIT (CPVC): To go up outside wall from ground
  • 3/8 IN. FLAIR CAP: To cap off gas to light at meter
  • 1/4 IN FLAIR PLUG: To cap off gas to light at top of pole
  • ENAMEL SPRAY PAINT: For head, pole and eagle.


Wire Layout

Calculate where wire will enter the house and extend wire to the pole. If something is in the way go around it, move it, or go under it. It can be a hassle to cut wire only to find it’s too short to extend inside the house because it is IMPORTANT! To have one continuous run of wire, any splice may fail a year or two later.

Start job at pole and if something is in the way, go under it, bury up to that point and then cut. Ideal locations for power source for transformer are inside the house, basement or garage. Ideal rafter access into home is a crawl space or basement. BE SURE WHERE DRILL IS GOING INTO THE HOME! DO NOT DRILL INTO HOME FOUNDATIONS!!




1. Remove the glass from the lamp head. There should be a set screw at the base. If it doesn‘t turn, push up at the bottom of cage and force head off the pole. Use both palms in a synchronous bumping straight up method. Do this on each side of the head.

2. Disconnect the gas line at the flair fitting and plug it off or... Go to meter and locate supply line to gas light and cap it after the valve, if there is one. Use a 3/8 or a 1/2 inch flair fitting. If unsure which to use check first. If unsure how to do this, consult a licensed plumber or consult your local Gas Company

3. With an aluminum lamp head it shouldn't be too difficult to remove the gas burning fixtures inside. Two pair of pliers should do the job nicely: however, a steel head may take a bit of persuasion in freeing the center for the conversion parts. A chisel and hammer, or drill can be handy, however, in some rare cases a new lamp head is necessary.



4. Once you’ve disconnected the gas line, and removed the gas burning components, paint the lamp head inside and out, with average spray enamel. Eagles on lamp heads should be painted gold.




5. Drill a 3/8-inch hole in the pole, 4 inches down from the top of pole, or approximately 1/2 inch below the lamp head seat line. Aim it away from major light sources – North is best to avoid having direct sunlight deteriorate the lens.

6. Drill or chisel another hole below the dirt line. Make sure it is rounded out nicely in order to slip the wire through. Make certain not to accidentally nick the gas line. Customers who capped off supply line at meter, don’t worry about nicking the line. It’s already shut off!

7. Stretch the wire from the house to pole. We push the wire up from the bottom with an 8' piece of fish tape or you could drop a string down the pole to bottom opening and retrieve it through the opening with a wire hook or paper clip. Attach wire by lifting and pushing until wire extends about six inches out top of pole. Fold over to keep it from falling. 



8. Slide the eye down to match the drilled hole with a pair of pliers. Push the threaded end through the hole made earlier, at the top of pole, and screw the nut and cap onto the end finger tight only. Do not over torque! 






9. By now the lamp head is dry. Place the bulb tree inside the lamp head with one flat nut and one washer on the all thread. Guide it through the center hole in the head. Place the other washer and nut on the end of the all thread and tighten down. Make sure its centered in the head.

If... The stem is too tall, cut it down with a simple copper cutter or

if... You have an unusually tall lamp head then you can make the stem of the bulb tree longer using standard 1/2" copper pipe. Coat your copper with a clear poly to make it shine longer.

10.  Wire accordingly:

  • House wire = One of Two wires from Transformer in the house
  • Head wire= One of Two wires from Bulb Tree in Lamp Head   
  • Eye wire= Dusk-To-Dawn Control mounted in Post.

1-House wire to Black Eye wire and 1-House wire to White Eye wire.

1-Head wire to Red Eye wire and 1-Head wire to 1-White Eye wire 

*Note: MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you have wired the eye correctly. If you cover the eye with your hand, there will be an 8 second delay before the light comes on and light will leak through your finger.



 11. Use an up and down method for smooth paint lines on the pole. Be sure to use the original color. When reinstalling the glass, some heads use a glass clip. Bend a paper clip or piece of wire braid to fit around the hold down screws.

12. With the Charm-Lite system, start at the pole and work toward the power supply. Now calculate the optimum path for the wire to go, taking into consideration barriers. Map out the job like a professional. If the door is in the middle, and the sidewalk extends to the drive then go to the side that has no sidewalk. Look along the top of the foundation wall in the basement for a good wire entrance location on that side of the porch. Use the water faucet as a good location finder. If you have no basement, you will have to run wire through the crawl space to the garage or straight up through the floor to an existing outlet. If it’s a split-foyer home, many consumers have run into demise by running the wire improperly.



Never drill through a poured foundation! It could crack. About the only way to do it is to go to the lowest level through the window frame or the finished garage. This is tough because you have to tack a wire from the front of the garage to the back outlet. Such homes always have sidewalks, or a concrete drive is connected to the porch, which means about fifteen feet of concrete molloys exposed. You could go up the wall to the second floor, into an outlet there. Either way it doesn't look very attractive. The trick is to hide wire. Impress yourself!


13. Begin burying wire by slicing ground at a 45-degree angle breaking down and then pushing up causing a tilted "V" gap. The wire doesn‘t have to go to China. The voltage is only 24V. The transformer has a fused secondary in case of a short. About 4" to 6" inches deep is all that‘s necessary. Push the wire in with the dandelion digger pushing forward in order to stretch out any slack and keep it from creeping out. This will take some getting used to, so take your time. Once reaching a point where you have to go under something, do it now and then continue until reaching the entrance point of the home. You may need to use conduit now. Cut off what’s needed and run the wire through it. Cut the wire now. Give enough slack to splice the basement wire and the outside wire without standing on a ladder. Shove wire through hole and seal with caulk.



14. Splice into the basement wire and staple to the rafters. Just remember to use your head, take a look at the example left by the Phone Co's, Cable Co's or existing electrical wiring. Don‘t run staples too close to 110V wires, and if you can, try to hide them as much as possible. Go to the nearest outlet for hooking up the transformer. Make sure its not on the switch to the basement at the top of the stairs. If it‘s on a pull chain type socket usually you’re safe to assume it‘s not. Don‘t even try to plug into a socket type outlet. Get a power strip and mount it to the rafter and plug it in. If you have an outlet in an enclosed wall you can fish the wire behind the wall, assuming the ceiling tiles are removable. (Snip off the end of the fishtape, its easier to navigate). Go around the outlet box and fish up. Attach the wire and pull down If you are unfortunate enough to have an enclosed ceiling then you have to be tricky about where you come in with the wire. Most of the time there will be a water meter at the front wall and assuming there is, it will also be enclosed. If you look up inside this you will have a little space to come in at. BE ACCURATE as to where you come in at, there is sometimes only the width of a rafter in which to do so. Remember the water faucet? It is usually right there, MAKE SURE with a visual check. If not then whip out the tape measure. Don‘t forget the width of the wall when measuring the outside. (About 10 inches). Then run the wire down to the baseboard and like an extension cord go to the nearest outlet. If you don‘t like that idea then maybe there is a utility room straight back from there. Follow this rafter with your fishtape and literally hook the wire by attaching a wire clothes hanger to your fish tape and reel it into the utility room. A flashlight and prayer is real handy at this point, but I wouldn't tell you to do anything that I haven‘t already successfully tried.

Special Circumstances:

We have included the following circumstances as instruction regarding some special circumstances that may require an experienced professional for conversion installations. We recommend consumers hire a professional in the following circumstances. There are several other circumstances that may require a professional. When evaluating installation difficulty these particular circumstances should be taken into consideration, as well as a variety of other individual circumstances relating, but not limited to design of home, irrigation, landscape design, etc.


When necessary to go under a sidewalk, use the 3/4-inch pipe. Lay it down perpendicular to sidewalk. Slice ground at a straight up angle, as deep as sidewalk, as long as pipe, plus two feet. Lay pipe in slot and sledge it under sidewalk. Dig to find the pipe on the other side. Now cut wire – just make sure you have enough slack to finish the job. Pull out pipe and shove wire through hole, left, by pipe. Continue burying wire up to house entrance point. Conduit is not necessary, but does help protect it and look straight. Tree roots are a hazard – avoid them if possible. Digging down deep enough might enable going under the root, but would mean cutting wire and threading it under the root. But, it is very important to keep a continuous run of wire. DON’T COME UP SHORT! Lampheads may require slightly different installation processes, with the following changes.

Split Foyer Homes: Many consumers have run into demise by running the wire improperly in split foyer homes. (We recommend hiring a professional.) Never drill through a foundation! It will crack. About the only way to do it is to go to the lowest level through the window frame or the finished garage. This is tough because you have to tack a wire from the front of the garage to the back outlet or go to the ceiling fixture and install a pull chain socket. Such homes always have sidewalks, or a concrete drive is connected to the porch, which means about fifteen feet of concrete molloys exposed. You could go up the wall to the second floor, into an outlet there. Either way it doesn't look very attractive. The trick is to hide wire.

Some lampheads require a little adaptation to normal installation procedures suitable to standard lampheads. However, as mentioned this manual is tailored to the needs of a standard installation, and this guide is included only as instruction and advice concerning one of many circumstances consumers may encounter. Lamp owners must evaluate particular lamp and home circumstances, which may require further adaptation to adequately complete the job. For custom installation we recommend hiring an experienced professional.


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